20 Exploitative Adjustments by Street & Situation

After this chapter you will be able to classify an opponent into a player type and choose the highest-value preflop, flop, turn, and river adjustment against them.

A game-theory-optimal (GTO) strategy is a fortress: a true equilibrium can’t be exploited and won’t lose in the long run heads-up, but it does not actively go out and beat anyone either. It surrenders nothing and seizes nothing. (A fully solved GTO strategy is also an idealization, especially multiway, where equilibrium does not even guarantee unexploitability; real play only approximates it.) The money in poker comes from the gap between how your opponents actually play and how they should play, and almost everyone, even strong regulars, leaks somewhere. This chapter is a systematic playbook for finding those leaks and pressing on them, organized street by street so you can use it as a quick-reference guide at the table.

The mental model that ties everything together is simple: figure out which direction your opponent is unbalanced, then move your own strategy in the opposite direction, hard. If they fold too much, bluff more and value-bet less thinly. If they call too much, bluff less and value-bet thinner. If they bluff too little, fold your medium hands. If they bluff too much, call (or raise) wider. Every exploit in this chapter is a specific instance of those four sentences.

Key idea

A true equilibrium defends against your worst-case opponent. Exploitation attacks your actual opponent. Exploiting does open you to a counter-exploit, but most players never adjust, so that risk rarely materializes. Deviate boldly against the field; tighten up only when a thinking opponent shows they have noticed.

Before we go street by street, a word on evidence. Live, your reads come from physical tells, bet-sizing patterns, showdowns, and table talk, all probabilistic and never certain. Online, your reads come from a HUD (heads-up display) and timing. Any stat thresholds I cite are typical ranges, not laws; a 9-max full-ring nit and a 6-max heads-up maniac live on different planets. Treat numbers as directional. And remember sample size: a VPIP/PFR read (how often a player voluntarily puts money in the pot, and how often they raise preflop) stabilizes in dozens of hands, but a “folds river to raises” read might rest on three data points. Weight your exploits by how confident the read is.

20.1 Reading the Player Type Quickly

Most of your opponents collapse into a handful of archetypes. You will refine these as you gather information, but a fast first classification tells you which section of this chapter to apply.

Archetype	Live tells	Typical HUD signature	Core leak
Station / calling station	Calls quickly and cheerfully, hates folding, “let’s see it”	High VPIP, low PFR, low fold-to-cbet, low aggression factor	Calls too much, bluffs too little
Nit	Tight, deliberate, only bets when strong, sighs and folds	Low VPIP, low 3-bet, high fold-to-cbet, high WTSD (went-to-showdown) strength	Folds too much, never bluffs
TAG (tight-aggressive reg)	Solid, balanced, thinks before acting	~20/17 VPIP/PFR, healthy 3-bet	Few leaks; look for tendencies, not blunders
LAG / maniac	Splashy, raises constantly, restless	High VPIP, high PFR, high aggression	Over-bluffs, opens too wide
ABC / face-up	Plays “by the book,” sizing tells the story	Moderate everything, but bet sizes correlate with strength	Predictable; readable sizing

The single most profitable habit in exploitative poker is to assign every opponent to a type within the first orbit and update relentlessly. Now let’s exploit each, street by street.

20.2 Preflop Exploits

Preflop is where exploits compound, because a preflop edge repeats on every street that follows and across every hand of the session.

Isolate limpers wider

A player who open-limps is broadcasting a capped range (one that holds few or no premium hands) and a passive disposition. Against habitual limpers, widen your isolation-raising range and size up so you play a heads-up pot in position against a player who will check-fold flops.

Versus a typical recreational limper, raising to 4–5bb (plus 1bb per additional limper) with any two broadway cards, any suited ace, any pair, and most suited connectors is profitable from late position.
The mechanism is twofold: you often take the pot down preflop, and when called you have position and initiative against a passive, face-up player.

Common mistake

Iso-raising too small. A 2.5bb iso over a limp gives the limper a great price and invites the blinds to come along. The limp told you they are weak and passive, so punish it with a size (4bb+) that denies equity and isolates you one-on-one. Small iso sizing is one of the most common ways live players give back easy value.

3-bet light versus nitty stealers

The late-position steal is supposed to be wide, but many regulars, and almost all nits, open a much tighter range than their position justifies, then fold far too often to 3-bets. Against a player whose fold-to-3-bet runs high (live, you’ll read this from repeated open-folds; online, a fold-to-3bet north of ~67–70% at a standard 3x re-raise stands out), 3-bet a wide, polarized bluffing range (one weighted toward strong value hands and bluffs, with few medium holdings) and take it down preflop. The threshold is tied to your sizing: 65% folds does not by itself make an any-two 3x light 3-bet profitable on fold equity alone. It clears the bar only if you downsize the 3-bet, rely on the equity you realize when called, or hold a hand with real blockers and playability.

Ideal light 3-bet hands are those slightly too weak to flat profitably but with good blockers and playability: A5s–A2s (blocks their strong aces), K9s, suited gappers, T8s.
Whether ~70% folds is enough depends on your sizing. At a standard 3x re-raise (about 9bb over a 3bb open) the breakeven fold frequency is ~67%, so 70% folds shows an immediate profit with any two cards. Size up to a 4x re-raise (about 12bb) and the breakeven climbs to ~73%, so 70% folds would not be profitable on fold equity alone. Pick a sizing your read can actually clear.

Flat instead of squeeze versus squeeze-happy regs

When there is an open and a cold-call in front of you, the textbook aggressive play is to squeeze. But if a yet-to-act player behind you is squeeze-happy, re-raising light whenever the action opens up to them, you can trap them. Flat-call with your strong-but-squeezable hands (JJ, AQ, TT) and let the aggressive player drive their range into your strength. (By definition the squeezer has not yet acted as the raiser; the original raiser cannot squeeze. If he piles in over the cold-call he is making a light 4-bet, a separate read you attack the same way: flat your strong hands and let him barrel.)

This is a counter-exploit: you are exploiting an opponent who is themselves trying to exploit. By flatting, you keep their bluffs in and disguise your hand.
It requires positional awareness: you want the squeezer behind you so they have room to make the mistake.

Attack small opens

Bet sizing carries information, and a min-raise or small open (roughly 2–2.5bb; 2bb is the legal floor in an unraised pot) from many live players signals either a weak “cheap look” hand or a strong hand trying to induce. Against the typical small-opening recreational player, the weak interpretation dominates.

In position, flat wider and plan to outplay them postflop, or 3-bet to punish the small size; your 3-bet risks less to win the same pot because their open is tiny.
From the blinds, defend much wider than a chart says. Against a 2bb open the immediate price is excellent (calling 1bb to win ~3.5bb, ~22% raw equity needed), but those pot odds understate what you actually need, because you are out of position and will usually face a c-bet and realize your equity poorly. So defend wide, though not literally as wide as the raw pot-odds threshold suggests: weight toward hands with postflop playability and good blockers, and trim the offsuit junk that flops weakly and can’t continue.

Drill

For your next live session, write down every limp and every sub-2.5bb open you see, and note the showdown if it reaches one. After one session you’ll have a personalized read on which opponents’ small sizings mean “weak” versus “trapping.” Most of the time, at low and mid stakes, it means weak.

Widen for value versus LAG/maniac openers

A LAG or maniac opens and 3-bets a range far wider than position justifies, and just as importantly, their 3-bets and 4-bets are full of air. The instinct to tighten up and “wait for a hand” against an aggressive player is exactly backwards. Their wide range means you can value-bet thinner than you could against a tight player.

Flat and 4-bet wider for value. Hands that are routine folds versus a nit’s 3-bet (AQ, AJs, KQ, 99, even some weaker broadways) become flats or value 4-bets against a wide opener, because you are now ahead of a much larger chunk of their range.
Defend the blinds wider. Against a maniac’s loose, large opens you are over-folding if you play a standard chart; their range is weak enough that more of your holdings are ahead, so call (and 3-bet) more from the blinds than you would versus a tight opener.
Don’t over-respect their light 3-bets. A maniac who 3-bets too wide is handing you value, so call down or 4-bet for value rather than folding to the re-raise. Folding hands that beat a maniac’s 3-bet just because they’d lose to a nit’s is the leak they are counting on. Keep tightening your bluff continues while you widen your value continues.

Value-raise, don’t bluff-raise, versus stations preflop

The same logic that kills flop bluffs versus a station applies preflop. A light 3-bet’s entire profit comes from fold equity, and a station supplies none, so its value collapses to zero or worse.

Cut preflop bluff-3-bets to near zero. Re-raising A5s “for balance” against a player who never folds just bloats the pot out of position with a dominated hand. There is no fold equity to harvest.
Value-3-bet and isolate wider instead. Because a station calls your raise with a wide, weak range, your value 3-bets and iso-raises print: build the pot with the hands that dominate their calls (big broadways, strong aces, pairs), size up so they pay, and plan to value-bet relentlessly postflop rather than to win the pot before the flop.

20.3 Flop Exploits

The flop is where your preflop read pays off and where the station-versus-nit axis matters most. The continuation bet (c-bet) is the central battleground.

Versus stations: stop bluffing, value-bet thinner

This is the highest-EV adjustment in low-stakes poker, and the most frequently botched. Against a player who does not fold, your bluffs lose their entire purpose: fold equity is the engine of a bluff, and a station provides none. Because they call with so many worse hands, your value range expands at the same time.

Cut your c-bet bluffs to near zero. On a board where you have nothing but two overcards and no equity, just check and give up. Do not fire a “standard c-bet” into a station; it is a pure loss.
Value-bet thinner and bigger. Hands you’d normally check for pot control (top pair weak kicker, second pair good kicker) become multi-street value hands. If they’ll call with bottom pair and ace-high, bet KQ on Q♠8♥4♦ for value across all three streets. Be more careful with middle pair: against a true station it is usually a one-to-two-street value hand. The station’s wide flatting and limping range still holds top-pair hands that beat you, so take a third street with middle pair only on blank rivers and with a moderate size. Reserve confident three-street value for top pair and better.
Size up, but match the size to the hand. Stations are price-insensitive; they call 75% pot about as often as 50% pot. With your nutted value (sets, two pair, the effective nuts) charge the maximum and feel free to overbet, since nothing in their range outdraws or outkicks you. With medium one-pair value like top pair and a middling kicker, bet a healthy size but don’t auto-overbet: that hand can be outkicked or coolered by a better pair or a set, so you want worse hands to pay without ballooning the pot. A moderate, confident size already prints; save the maximum for holdings that can never be behind.

Common mistake

“Bluffing the station off it.” You will hear players announce, “He has to fold eventually.” He does not. The defining trait of a station is that “eventually” never arrives. Against this player type your edge is patience and thin value, not creativity. Save the bluffs for opponents capable of folding.

Versus nits: c-bet less, give up more, but steal relentlessly

A nit’s range after calling preflop is strong, and they won’t fold their good hands, but their weaker continues fold readily. The nuance: nits fold too much to aggression but also don’t pay off your value. Adjust on both ends.

When a nit check-calls a flop and then leads or check-raises a later street, believe them and fold your bluff-catchers. They are not capable of the move without it.
Against a nit who folds to c-bets at a high clip, c-betting your air on the flop is fine the first time (they fold their misses), but don’t barrel turn and river without a real hand. If they called the flop, they have something, and they won’t fold it.
Respect a nit’s c-bets and barrels, but pounce on their give-ups. Because a nit bets only when strong, floating their c-bet just floats a value range that keeps firing. What you attack is their passivity: when a nit declines to c-bet as the preflop aggressor, or fires the flop and then checks the turn, that check is a surrender with air they won’t defend. Stab and take the pot away on the street they give up.

Size up versus sticky players

Some opponents aren’t pure stations but are sticky: they hate folding top pair or an overpair and will call one big bet, yet fold to sustained pressure on scary runouts. Against these players:

Overbet your value on textures where they’re committed to a one-pair hand. If they will call 130% pot with top pair on a Q♠7♥2♦ board because “I have top pair,” then bet 130% pot with your sets and two pair.
Use scare cards to bluff, but only ones that credibly hit your range and threaten theirs: a fourth flush card, an ace overcard, a board-pairing card. The sticky player folds to the story the board tells, so give it a believable one.

Versus over-bluffers and maniacs: bluff-catch wider, value-bet bigger

The mirror image of the station is the LAG or maniac who over-bluffs and barrels too wide, firing continuation bets, turn barrels, and rivers with a range stuffed with air, semi-bluffs, and thin “I’ll-represent-it” hands. The exploit is the opposite of what you do against a nit: instead of believing their aggression, you disbelieve it and let them keep firing into your strength. This adjustment runs from the flop through the river, because the maniac’s bluffs come on every street.

Bluff-catch much wider, and don’t fold one-pair to multi-street aggression. Top pair and even second pair are now legitimate calls down against a player whose barreling range is full of air. The hands a nit’s check-raise screams “lay down” are exactly the hands you call with against a maniac.
Check-call rather than bet or raise. Don’t bluff into a non-folder, and don’t blast your medium-strength hands either; keep their bluffs in. When you have a hand that beats their bluffs but you’re unsure it beats their value, checking lets them barrel their air into you on later streets, which is the mistake you want. Betting it yourself only folds out the worse hands.
Value-bet bigger, because they call and raise light. When you hold a strong made hand, size up: a maniac pays off large bets with hands a tighter player would fold, and will often raise your value bet with a worse hand or a bluff. Fast-playing and building the pot with your nutted holdings beats slow-playing here, so let them put the money in for you.
Deploy light raises sparingly, and only when their aggression frequency is genuinely too high. A check-raise bluff or a thin value-raise can turn their wide range into a folding spot, but it surrenders your real edge, which is their tendency to keep bluffing. Most of the time the higher-EV line against a maniac is simply to call and let them keep betting into you.

Versus face-up players: let their sizing pick your line

The ABC / face-up player isn’t a station or a maniac. They play “by the book,” but their bet sizing correlates with hand strength, which hands you a near-perfect read every time they wager. The whole exploit is to read the size and respond to it, on the flop and turn alike (it carries to the river too, but the cheapest mistakes to punish come earlier, before the pot is built).

Treat their small or weak bets as weakness. When a face-up player makes a small or “blocker-ish” c-bet, it is usually a marginal made hand or a give-up, so attack it: raise or float wide and take the pot away on a later street, and value-bet thinner yourself when their checks or min-bets signal they’ve given up.
Treat their big or strong bets as value. When the same player suddenly sizes up, believe it. Fold your marginal hands, don’t bluff-raise into the size that means strength, and don’t pay off their max-sizing without a genuinely strong hand. Bet-fold is the standard line: bet for thin value, then fold if a face-up player raises you big.
Exploit the gap rather than fight it. Because their sizing is honest, you rarely need a hero call or a creative bluff. You decline to put money in when the size screams strength and pile it in when the size whispers weakness. Over a session this is one of the lowest-variance edges in the chapter.

20.4 Turn and River Exploits

The later streets are where the biggest pots are decided and where population tendencies are most exploitable, because most players have studied flop play far more than river play. The turn is the most under-played street of all, under-barreled and under-raised by the typical player. Two leaks dominate the river: people under-bluff it, and people make weak blocker bets they can’t defend.

Attack the under-played turn

Most players who fire the flop give up too readily on the turn, and most who do raise the turn are massively value-heavy. Both halves are exploitable.

Float the flop and probe the turn versus fire-and-give-up c-bettors. A huge swath of players c-bet the flop almost automatically and then shut down on the turn without a real hand. Against them, call the flop wide with any backdoor equity or overcards and plan to take the pot away when they check the turn. If you’re the one out of position, probe or stab the turn when the preflop aggressor checks behind, because that check is usually a surrender.
Bet your bluffs on the turn, not just the flop. Because the turn faces more folds than equilibrium would allow, a turn barrel is one of the better-priced bluffing spots available. Don’t be the player who fires one flop bet and quits.
Over-fold to turn raises and check-raises. When a typical opponent raises or check-raises the turn, their range is heavily value-weighted; turn raises are even rarer and more honest than river raises for most of the field. Lay down your one-pair and marginal bluff-catchers to a turn check-raise rather than “peeling to see a river.” You are usually drawing thin against a range that has you crushed.

Exploit under-bluffed rivers by overfolding

This is perhaps the most important single exploit in modern poker against weaker and even decent regular opponents. The vast majority of players, when they fire a large bet on the river, are far too value-heavy: they simply do not have enough bluffs to justify the price they’re laying you.

Against a pot-sized river bet you’re getting 2-to-1, so your bluff-catcher only needs to be good ~33% of the time to call. (The whole-range version of this is minimum defense frequency, MDF: against a pot-sized bet MDF is pot/(pot+bet) = 1/(1+1) = 50%, and a 2/3-pot bet is what produces a 60% MDF. But your individual bluff-catcher’s call-or-fold decision is governed by pot odds, not by MDF.) If your opponent bluffs this river only 10% of the time when balance would require ~33%, calling is clearly -EV, your bluff-catchers are pure losses, and you should fold almost all of them.
Concrete rule of thumb: against a player who is not a habitual bluffer, when they make a large or overbet river bet, fold everything that isn’t itself a value hand. Pay off only with hands that beat a chunk of their value range, not with marginal bluff-catchers.
The discipline this requires is real. You will fold the winner sometimes, and you’ll feel it. But over a thousand rivers, systematically folding to under-bluffers is one of the largest sources of EV available to a thinking player. You’ll occasionally be shown a bluff; that is simply the variance around an adjustment that wins on average.

Key idea

Aggression on the river is usually honest. Most players’ river-raising ranges in particular are almost pure value, and population river check-raise frequencies are a small fraction of what balance requires. When a typical opponent check-raises the river, your tens-up and your overpair are usually just contributions to their stack. Overfold and move on.

Attack small blocker bets

A blocker bet (also called a “block bet”) is a small river bet, often 20–33% of pot, that an out-of-position player makes hoping to (a) get to a cheap showdown and (b) prevent the larger bet they’d face if they checked. The intention is defensive, and that is exactly the weakness.

When a capped, passive opponent leads small into you on the river, raise. Their range is defined as medium-strength or worse; with the nuts they’d usually bet bigger or check-raise. A blocker bet says, “I have a marginal made hand and I’m scared.”
Size your raise to put them to a genuine decision for a big portion of their stack. The blocker-bettor priced themselves in for a small bet, not a big raise, so they will fold out the bulk of the range they were trying to protect.
Choose bluff-raise hands that block their continues and unblock their folds, for instance a busted draw that blocks the nut hands they’d call with.
Caveat: some thinking players blocker-bet a merged range that includes traps. If you’ve seen an opponent blocker-bet and then snap-call a raise with a strong hand, downgrade this exploit against them specifically.

Triple-barrel versus over-folders

The mirror image of the under-bluffer is the over-folder, the player who plays “fit or fold” on the turn and river, peeling the flop with marginal hands and then surrendering whenever they don’t improve. Live, you’ll spot them folding to second and third barrels with visible relief. Online, a high fold-to-turn-bet and fold-to-river-bet flags them.

Against over-folders, run your bluffs all the way. A single c-bet leaves money behind; the over-folder’s mistake is on the later streets, so that is where you must keep betting.
Pick runouts that credibly complete your story and barrel scare cards: overcards to the board, completed flushes, paired turns you can represent.
Size up on the river. The bigger you bet, the more their already-too-high fold frequency climbs. An overbet river shove against a true over-folder is one of the most profitable bluffs in poker.
Choose semi-bluffs and pure bluffs that block their calling range. Barreling a busted nut-flush draw is ideal because you hold a card that prevents their strongest continues.

20.5 A Fully Worked Example Hand

Let’s tie the streets together. $2/$5 live cash, effective stacks 150bb. You’ve been at the table two hours and tagged the villain, a 55-ish recreational player in the cutoff, as a station with a side of sticky: he limps and calls a lot, hates folding top pair, and has shown down weak made hands while never once turning a hand into a bluff.

Preflop. He limps the cutoff. You’re on the button with K♠J♠. Applying isolate limpers wider and size up, you raise to 5bb over his limp. The blinds fold; he calls. Heads-up, in position, against a face-up passive player: exactly the spot we want. Pot ~12bb.

Flop. J♥8♣4♦. You’ve flopped top pair, decent kicker. Against a normal reg this is a check-back candidate for pot control. But against a station, we apply value-bet thinner and bigger. He will call with any jack, any eight, gutshots, and ace-high “to see another card.” Bet 8bb into 12bb. He calls. Pot ~28bb.

Turn. J♥8♣4♦ → 2♠. A complete blank, which is perfect: it doesn’t improve any of the draws he might have, and it doesn’t scare him off his second pair or worse jack. Continue thin value: bet 20bb into 28bb. He calls again. By now his range is heavy with worse jacks, eights, and pocket pairs that won’t fold. Pot ~68bb.

River. J♥8♣4♦2♠ → 5♥. Another blank. Here’s the discipline: we are the aggressor and we hold a one-pair hand. Two questions. First, for value: does a station call a third barrel with worse? Yes. KJ beats all his jacks with a worse kicker, all his eights, and any underpair. He’s sticky and price-insensitive, so we bet a healthy value size: 45bb into 68bb (about two-thirds pot). We don’t overbet, because KJ is medium one-pair rather than a set or two pair. It can be outkicked by a better jack or coolered by an unlikely set, so a confident but moderate size gets the bulk of his worse range to pay without paying off the rare hand that beats us. Second, the under-bluff check: if instead he had led or check-raised at any point, we’d shift to overfold mode and fold, because this player never bluffs. Does he flat-call the river with 8♥8♦? No; he had J♦T♦, calls, and pays off the whole way.

Notice what we did not do: we never bluffed, because he can’t fold; we never checked back for “pot control,” because his calling range is so wide that thin value outweighs the risk; and we bet a healthy value size each street, a steady ~two-thirds pot, because he is price-insensitive, while stopping short of overbetting a one-pair hand that can be outkicked. Had we held a set or two pair, those same streets would be where we’d ratchet the size to the maximum. Against a TAG, half these bets would be checks. The read changed the entire hand.

20.6 Quick-Reference Decision Guide

When you have a moment of doubt at the table, run the read through this table.

If your opponent…	Then you should…
Open-limps habitually	Iso-raise wider and bigger (4–5bb+), isolate one-on-one in position
Opens late position but folds to 3-bets a lot	3-bet a wide polarized bluff range; take it down preflop
Squeezes too often	Flat your strong hands and let them bluff into you
Opens / 3-bets too wide (LAG, maniac)	Flat and 4-bet wider for value, defend the blinds wider, don’t fold to their light 3-bets
Min-opens / opens tiny	Defend/3-bet much wider; punish the small size
Bet sizing tells the story (face-up)	Attack/float their small bets, bet-fold to their big ones; never bluff-raise or pay off their max size light
Never folds (station)	Stop bluffing entirely (preflop and postflop); value-3-bet/iso and value-bet thinner and bigger; take middle pair only one-to-two streets
Folds too much to c-bets (nit)	C-bet air once, give up if called; respect their bets, stab their checks/give-ups
Is sticky with one pair	Overbet your value; bluff only credible scare cards
Bluffs and barrels too much (maniac)	Bluff-catch wider, don’t fold one-pair to barrels; check-call to keep their bluffs in; value-bet bigger; raise light only when their aggression is truly excessive
C-bets the flop then gives up the turn	Float the flop wide; stab/probe the turn when they check; barrel turns more
Raises or check-raises the turn	Over-fold; turn raises are heavily value-weighted, even more than river raises
Rarely bluffs the river	Overfold to large river bets and river raises
Makes small blocker bets	Raise to fold out their capped range
Plays fit-or-fold on later streets	Triple-barrel scare cards, size up, block their calls

Drill

Pick one exploit from this guide before your next session and commit to executing it correctly every single time the spot arises, for example, “I will overfold to every large river bet from a non-bluffer.” Tracking one exploit deliberately builds the pattern-recognition that eventually lets you run all of them at once, automatically.

The throughline of this entire chapter: identify the direction of the imbalance, then exaggerate your response in the opposite direction. Stations under-fold, so you under-bluff and over-value-bet. Nits fold their weak hands too readily preflop and on the flop, so you over-bluff early but under-pay when they finally commit. Over-folders surrender too easily on the later streets, so you over-barrel through to the river. Under-bluffers are too honest, so you over-fold to their big bets and raises. And over-bluffers, the maniacs, fire too much, so you bluff-catch wider, keep their bluffs in by check-calling, and value-bet bigger. Those four directions of imbalance map onto the four sentences from the opening of this chapter: too tight, too loose, too honest, too aggressive. Every profitable exploit in poker, on every street, is a variation on them, applied with the courage to deviate and the discipline to stop when a thinking opponent finally adjusts.

20.7 Summary

Classify every opponent into a type within the first orbit, then update as you gather information.
Against stations: stop bluffing and value-bet thinner and bigger, reserving the maximum size for hands that can never be behind.
Against nits: c-bet air once and give up if called, respect their aggression, and attack their give-ups.
Against maniacs and over-bluffers: bluff-catch wider, check-call to keep their bluffs in, and value-bet bigger.
On the river: overfold to large bets and raises from honest players, raise small blocker bets, and barrel over-folders all the way.
Every exploit reduces to one move: find the direction of the imbalance and lean the opposite way, boldly against the field and cautiously once a thinking opponent adjusts.